How to choose the best 3d printer resin for you? Conjure resin test for example.Yongfei Sun
We send our conjure rigid and sculpt for reviews. Swap the article with a guest post and it’s perfect. and this link is cleaner: Dennys Wang
Before all the tests, you should get the right exposure time for your resin, Doing an exposure time test will be good to know the best settings for your resin.
In this test, we can know if the support can be easily removed in post-processing.
You can use the warm water trick to help, on both, they can be pulled off the resin very easily
and now on to the bending test, which is one two three four, and five millimeters, in diameter, I will start with this left resin first, at four millimeters it breaks. and right resin here can survive up to three millimeters in diameter but this resin here can also bend quite far, I can hear only a small snapping sound but it doesn’t fully break.
The break test is very important to show the durability of your resin, most users have the experience break the prints after a perfect printing, it is painful and the non-brittle resin becomes very popular. The column in the middle detaches and connects to the top part, the left resin here all of the columns still intact to the bottom part and the top is very clean no support attached at all.
and let’s have a look at this insulin, the shield breaks here, but not the thin sword and for the left resin nothing seems to break at all.
Now let’s test this buckle here, I love the snapping sound, so let’s try to bend but it’s getting loose because it’s not back to the original straight position. The left resin(conjure rigid) here performs slightly much better compared to the right resin(conjure sculpt).
Now for dimensional accuracy, I designed this box at 18.5 times 18.5 millimeters, not bad for both dimensional accuracy only you need a slight adjustment on the slicer scale dimension and this slightly off accuracy can be fixed.
when looking for details on both resins for this head scalp here I cannot really tell the difference, the same with these ginseng minis,
but for this insulin minis, I could see that in the conjure sculpt resin the eye details are slightly much better compared to the left conjure rigid resin, the same with sergeant Silas you could see the scratch on the helmet here the right resin has much better details.
From this test, you can find if the resin has a good shrinkage so you can expect to get what the print should be as designed.
Now let’s try to assemble this figure from TeccoToys.
looks like I need to do a lot of adjusting for this right resin here it won’t snap in at all okay I need to do a lot of fine-tuning if I want to print articulation with this right resin.
For the left resin, much better, nothing breaks, and join on the head, the left resin performs slightly much better at least it doesn’t fall off easily and everything on the right resin seems to come off very easy.
In this test, you can know if there will be residue during the sanding of the prints.
Now let’s check for any residue if you rub two-part together from the friction, we are having some residue from both resins.
Now let’s do some hit tests at the lowest settings where it could warm up to 65 degrees celsius and the highest setting is about 80 degrees celsius I’m going to try the lower settings, it bends very easy and this is only at 65 degrees and now this is for the right side resin hold it and leave it to cool down.
I have cool both the left and right rising with water and after like 15 minutes both start to straighten up, so it seems that both cannot hold the shape during heat treatment.
Let’s hit them both again and see will it return to their original shape right away the left resin is already at its original shape and the right resin I could still see some slight bend here but it is almost returned to its original shape.
Water absorption test
Let’s measure the original weight for both resins for the water absorption test
the left rigid resin 4.693
the right sculpt resin 4.997
now let’s dip it in the water and leave it for 24 hours, make everything dried let’s measure the weight 4.8 and 5.164, it becomes slightly soft but not much, and the left resin becomes much softer compared to this one.
Here after 24 hours I do not see any separation of the pigment and the resin so this is a very good result.
Here both resins survive the drilling test.
From these tests, you can learn deeper if the resin is good or bad in the different usage, depending on what you are going to print, you can find the best resin for yourself.
For example. you print miniature mainly, the print detail will be the most important. print functional parts, accuracy, and mechanical data are more important.
3D Printing Workflow
Make sure to wear nitrile gloves anytime you intend to handle liquid resins.
1. Check the model
Make sure to prepare your model well, to not get a failed print, you should check the orientation, dig hole, and support settings.
CHITUBOX has some great tutorials to explain how to add support
2. Printing profile settings. (exposure time, lift speed, etc.)
Your local printing environment and resin setting greatly affect the final print quality. Conjure series resin requests a temperature of 25-30 ℃.
Conjure resin printing profile guide, Click here
You can also download the exposure test file to get the best settings for your printers. Click here
3. Check printer status before printing
3.1 Make sure your vat is clean,(no extra piece in the vat, or it will affect the quality). there is a video by Nerdtronic Why Resin 3D Prints Fail
3.2 Make sure your plate leveling well, for normal resin, it is easy to print, The Conjure series resin especially for the sculpt resin has a higher viscosity, you have to level the bed very well before printing, It shallow penetration depth makes the adhesion between layers not very strong. (For bigger printers the leveling is more important)
3.3 Add more lifting distance and reducing the lifting speed will help to get better results.
4. Shake the resin before use
You need to shake the bottle for a few minis if your resin is not used in a long time.
5. Clean the prints
It is better to clear the resin before post-curing because the chemical reaction is not completed during the first printing. There is uncured resin left on your prints.
We recommend using Ethanol or IPA and a painter brush (or any brush made of hair) to remove uncured resins. Ensure the prints are cleaned well if you have a wash station.
For some complex print, an ultrasonic cleaner is the best choice to clean it.
6. Dry and post-curing
Dry the prints before curing them, and use 395~405nm UV light for about 60s to cure them. If you need more time to cure the prints, maybe your prints are not cleaned well.
7. Putty and Paint to make the prints more durable
The resin material is not that good in durability compared to the filament. The humidity and light affect it even if it is post-cured.
Advantages of putty:
- Color anti-interference ability, cover the original color of the model parts to prevent color deviation.
- Easy to reflect the details after putty base to facilitate the inspection of surface defects and textures.
- The putty base has stronger adhesion to the paint to prevent paint loss.
8. Frequently asked printing issue
We also write many articles on CHITUBOX website to help you understand better what printing issue you may meet, and why it happens.
You can learn more detail here: